home featured + SIP + Travel
The New Puglia
Revitalized but True to Its Roots
WRITTEN BY Layne Randolph

|

Published On: January 15, 2025
Panoramic view of Ostuni white town, Brindisi, Puglia (Apulia), Italy, Europe. Old Town is Ostuni's citadel. Ostuni is referred to as the White Town. Architecture and landmark of Italy
Pictured above, Ostuni, The White City

A striking image has defined Italy’s Puglia region for decades—the white conical stone houses called Trulli. Built by layering stones without mortar, legend has it that the Trulli were designed to avoid taxation since they could be quickly dismantled when the tax man cometh. Alberobello, the symbolic home of the Trulli, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. While the Trulli are a must-see, they are the tip of the iceberg when discovering Puglia’s soul.

 

bottles of wine in wood box with words varvaglione on it for puglia article

Primitivo di Manduria // Photo courtesy of PC Varvaglione

WINE FROM PUGLIA

Puglia’s flagship wines are Primitivo and Negroamaro, and Rosato made with these varietals has always been a mainstay. Fiano, Verdeca, Malvasia Nera, Susumaniello, and Nero di Troia are also indigenous to the area. The most significant production of Primitivo is in Primitivo di Manduria DOC near Taranto.

 

Varvaglione 1921, Taranto History and Wine Innovation

Varvaglione 1921 is one of the oldest wineries in Southern Italy and exports five million bottles to over 70 countries. The Varvaglione Family, now headed by Maria Teresa and Cosimo Varviglione, the winemaker, has been farming their land for 100 years. The next generation—Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca—is focused on innovations in vineyard sustainability, like an onsite worm farm, and making wine in new ways, like launching a non-alcohol spritz and the 12 e Mezzo line offering wines with just 12.5 percent alcohol.

The winery has cred: Gambero Rosso has awarded Tre Bicchieri to several of its wines, including the 2021 Cosimo Varvaglione Private Collection Negroamaro del Salento IGP. In addition to Cosimo’s namesake, all the wines dedicated to family members are standouts: “Marfi” Verdeca Sauvignon Puglia IGP (daughter Marzia), “Primadonna” Chardonnay di Puglia IGP (wife Maria Teresa), “Tatu” Primitivo del Salento IGP (son Angelo), and “Chicca” Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG (daughter Francesca). A visit to their estate outside Taranto can include horseback riding through the vineyards upon request.

Incidentally, Taranto itself is worth a visit. Part of the Magna Grecia, it hosts an elaborate collection of antiquities in the National Archaeological Museum of Taranto (“MarTa”). The old town is a labyrinth of falling down buildings and expertly muralled walls, and the contrast is eerily beautiful. Taranto mussels are grown in Mar Piccola, a just-off-the-sea natural basin that gave Taranto the nickname “City of Two Seas.” The combination of salty sea water and sweet freshwater that flows through Mar Piccola adds a delicious, one-of-a-kind flavor. “Most Michelin-starred restaurants that offer mussels are offering Taranto mussels,” according to Angelo Varvaglione. // www.varvaglione.com

 

Leone de Castris, Rosato’s Ties to America

This Salice Salentino DOC winery has a special place for Americans since American soldiers inadvertently helped it continue bottling wine during and after WWII. The winery was out of glass, but it found American beer bottles littering the area and used them to hold Leone de Castris wine. Some of these bottles are still on display in the winery. According to the estate, Leone de Castris’s “Five Roses” Rosato was the first to be sold in the US.

Comprised primarily of Negroamaro with a small amount of Malvasia Nera di Lecce, Five Roses is cherry-pink with notes of strawberry and rose, and its name comes from the odd fact that several generations of the de Castris family had five children. // www.leonedecastris.com

 

Tormaresca, Marchesi Antinori’s Puglian Estate

The Tuscan wine dynasty Antinori owns Tormaresca, located in Minervino Murge, in the Castel del Monte DOC region. Calafuria Rosato Salento IGT, a crisp and elegant Rosato of Negroamaro, is grown in their vineyards along the Adriatic Coast. Antinori has wineries around the world, including two in Napa Valley (Stag’s Leap and Antica). // www.tormaresca.it

 

Libreria Libriemma, Bari

This central Bari spot melds two complementary forces: wine and books. It is half bookstore and half fully stocked and expertly guided enoteca, making for a tasty and informative stop. It’s also a great way to get a sample flight of the wines the region is most known for while nibbling on tarralli and picking out a book for the next trip. Two finds during a recent tasting: 2023 Marco Ludovico Petrsucio, Rosato, Puglia IGT and 2023 I Pastini Cupa, Bianco d’Alessano, Valle d’Itria IGP. // www.liberrima.it

 

Masseria Torre Maizza Pool with woman walking in background with flowing dress and sun hat for puglia article

Masseria Torre Maizza Pool

VALLE D’ITRIA

Antonello Losito, the founder of Southern Visions Travel based in Polignano al Mare, started his bespoke travel operation to show visitors the authentic Puglia, from “old recipes from the old days” to young innovators reviving ancient traditions in a modern way. He’s a proponent of many places that lie in the Valle d’Itria—the heart of Puglia, north of the southernmost tip of the boot’s heel, Salento, bordering Bari, Taranto, and Brindisi provinces, and, coincidentally, inclusive of Alberobello. He argues that other up-and-coming towns, Ostuni, Cisternino, and Altamura among them, offer the experiences most visitors dream of.

 

Altamura, Gourmet Bread and Cheese

Altamura is renowned for its delectable Altamura bread, but also boasts a vibrant cheese culture. Antonello has been guiding visitors to Altamura for years to experience Caseifficio Dicecca (Dicecca Dairy), a local cheese producer recently featured in Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy docuseries. Dicecca’s forest-based cheese bar crafts a 100-day Primitivo wine-soaked blue cheese covered in cherries called “Amore Primitivo.” This unique cheese and the town’s famous bread are must-tries for any food enthusiast. Antonello’s group guides visitors to Altamura to immerse themselves in this bread and cheese culture, visit Dicecca’s cheese shop, and even try cheese making. // www.vitodicecca.it

 

Ostuni, La Citta Bianca

Ostuni is a wonderfully chic town. Its streets and houses are painted white, hence the name La Citta Bianca (the white city), and the vision of all white houses on a hill is magical. Ostuni is regarded as an architectural marvel and highly walkable, with winding streets leading up to the Old Town, which has two magnificent sights—the Cathedral and the Bishop’s Palace. There are many places to stop and grab a bite. Don’t miss the region’s traditional pasta specialty, orecchiette, which is handrolled by local nonnas. 

Ostuni’s Il Cortiletto restaurant boasts a quaint outdoor terrace and a broad menu that will satisfy carnivores, pescatarians, and vegetarians alike. Items include the Puglian specialty Pureed Fava with Chicory and Beef Fillet Stuffed with Caciocavallo Cheese. // www.trattoriailcortiletto.it

 

Cisternino, Roasted Meat Paradise

Cisternino, one of Italy’s Borghi Piu Belli (most beautiful towns), is a charming destination with narrow winding streets and white-washed buildings. But its true allure lies in the unique dining experience at Zio Pietro, a renowned butcher shop. Here, guests can select their meat from the counter before it is prepared and served on the spot. This interactive dining experience, coupled with the town’s charm, is one of Antonello’s recommended experiences for “old recipes from the old days.” One such product is the bombette—a Puglian delicacy—these “little bombs” are small pork rolls stuffed with cheese and then roasted. “You select the meat, sit outside, and then spend the night with music in the square.”

 

Luxe Lodgings in the Itria Valley

Masseria Le Carubbe: Masseria are large country farmhouses where, in the past, farm workers lived and worked near the principal residence. If you’re seeking tranquility in the Puglian countryside, the ancient but perfectly restored Masseria Le Carrube offers 19 unique rooms, each featuring a private courtyard garden framed by stone walls and vibrant bougainvillea. Olive groves and fruit trees surround the rustic retreat. The restaurant offers a delightful vegetarian menu inspired by local traditions and seasonal ingredients from nearby farms and the Masseria’s gardens. // www.masserialecarrubeostuni.it/en/masseria-le-carrube/

 

Masseria Torre Maizza: A Rocco Forte property, Torre Maizza is a beautifully restored 16th-century masseria that combines traditional Puglian architecture with modern sophistication. The resort features spacious rooms and suites, some with private rooftop terraces overlooking the surrounding olive groves, golf course, and the sea. The culinary team is exceptional, and guests can indulge in extraordinary locally-inspired dishes that emphasize fresh, seasonal produce and traditional Italian flavors. // www.masseriatorremaizza.com

 

Casa Badra: Here’s where to get a Trulli fix. Eleven Trulli were combined to make one fully staffed villa with five bedrooms, six baths, three kitchens, a heated pool, a terrace, 300 olive trees, and, as the property puts it, one moon. It is designed for outdoor living but has exquisite taste on the inside. Combining the Trulli gives many rooms the signature Trulli vaulted ceiling, comfort, and indisputable charm. //  www.casabadra.com

 

 

four colorful fiats parked facing camera with blue sky and Trulli houses in background for puglia article

500 Journey’s Fiat Rentals

EXPERIENCES

Tour de Puglia, Cycling Culture

Puglia is a mecca for cycling enthusiasts, and Antonello himself was a professional cyclist who brought that expertise to Southern Visions’ Cycling program. He is now the region’s most significant cycling tour operator. “We have 150 bikes and a fleet of operators and guides. I have top-of-the-line $6000 bikes, electric bikes, and all sorts of inventory.” His company also has a Picnic Department that “focuses on the most decadent, romantic, and meaningful day tours we can do.”  It operates as a Destination Management Company, working with travel agents worldwide to create bespoke adventures, like cycling the Puglia Aqueduct Cycle Route to Cisternino. This route goes through the Mediterranean scrub of the Itria Valley. // www.southernvisionstravel.com

 

The 500 Journeys Experience

Another Southern Visions Travel bespoke experience is 500 Journeys, which offers restored Fiat 500s for rent. Imagine driving along the magnificent Adriatic Coast and picnicking at the seaside with a pizza and a bottle of local bubbly–an unforgettable Puglian experience. // www.southernvisionstravel.com/experience/the-fiat-500-vintage-car-experience/