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Side Trip: Bodega Bay
Fishing Village Known the World Over
WRITTEN BY Layne Randolph

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Published On: July 08, 2024
Sunset in Bodega Beach, Sonoma County, California

As the warm summer months begin to encompass the Bay area, a day or weekend reprieve to the cool, breezy temperatures and laid-back vibe of Bodega Bay is a popular choice for many who live inland. If it weren’t for the 1963 Alfred Hitchcock film, “The Birds,” Bodega Bay might be just another scenic fishing village along the Sonoma Coast. The townspeople of Bodega and Bodega Bay embrace the area’s claim to fame with locations like The Birds Café, a visitors’ center with The Birds theme, and an annual “parade” with attendees wearing costumes from the film. The movie’s iconic sites, like St. Teresa of Avila Church and the historic Potter Schoolhouse, still stand. St. Teresa of Avila Church is open to the public, but the Potter Schoolhouse is now a private residence and cannot be toured, although it can be viewed from afar.

The film showed the Tides Wharf & Restaurant (which is still operating, although the current restaurant is not the original). There is even a local souvenir shop that hauls out mannequins of Tippi Hedren, the film’s star, and Alfred Hitchcock to display on the roadside each morning. In short, the area’s claim to fame is a movie from almost 60 years ago, which says a lot about the community’s sense of kitsch and sleepy pace of life.

Technically, the film was not filmed in Bodega Bay; the famous church and schoolhouse are on the Bodega Highway in Bodega. However, many consider them to be one community, especially since the town of Bodega has a population of 211, and Bodega Bay has a population of 912.

Bodega has a history that goes much farther back than the Hitchcock film. Post-Native Americans, it was named after Spanish naval officer Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, who was the first European to discover the area in 1775 and explored the west coast of North America in the late 18th century. In 1843, Captain Stephen Smith was awarded a Mexican land grant named Rancho Bodega, and California became part of the United States five years later.

It’s easy to see why quiet Bodega Bay would have been selected as a movie set, with its romantic sailboats in the distance and grey-blue water and sky melding into each other. There are many things to do in the area, but they fall into just two groups: 1. Outdoor activities and 2. Eating, drinking, and sleeping.

 

woman riding a horse in the water at the beach with dog walking alongside

Photo by Carolyn Lewis

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

Fishing: To quickly understand the area, head straight to Spud Point Marina, where fishing boats are docked and local vendors sell seafood along the boardwalk. Fishing excursions and fresh seafood offerings are right on the theme. Several businesses offer chartered fishing excursions or guided boat trips.

Kayaking: Bodega Bay Kayak rents wetsuits, life vests, and kayaks, giving guests instructions and tips on exploring the bay.

Golf: Golf lovers flock to the Links at Bodega Harbour to experience its fantastic location, unique course, and breathtaking vistas. // www.bodegaharbourgolf.com

Hiking: Like most northern California coastal towns, hiking is a highlight for the residents and a focus for visitors. The Sonoma Coast State Park starts at the northern end of Bodega and extends 13 miles north to Jenner, offering beautiful cliffs and beaches. Bodega Head, located at the southern entrance to the park, is an ideal spot for watching migrating whales.

Close to Bodega Bay, the Doran Marsh Trail is a 0.9-mile roundtrip hike with easy but excellent hiking and bird watching along the coast with views of Bodega Harbour and Bodega Head. If bird watching is your thing, the Bird Walk Access Trail in the Sonoma County Regional Park just north of Doran Regional Park is a 1.19-mile trail featuring freshwater ponds and marshlands sanctuary for birds and waterfowl.

Archeological Sight: The area’s Mammoth Rocks are part oddities and part ancient wonders. Local archaeologists believe the strange marks on the rocks (called “polish marks”) were made by Pleistocene-era mammoths that used the stones as scratching posts.

 

DINING, SIPPING & STAYING

Dining: As an iconic fishing village, it is no surprise that seafood is the prime cuisine. Commercial boats head out in the morning and return with their catches later to stock the area’s establishments. Most of the dining is casual and al fresco. Fishetarian Fish Market offers fish tacos, clam chowder, and grilled salmon, and The Birds Café has barbequed oysters and fish and chips. The Spud Point Crab Company, located in Spud Point Marina, is an iconic and popular hole-in-the-wall spot—clam chowder is their specialty. Still, many crab options, like crab sandwiches, are also available. The Tides Wharf & Restaurant of “The Birds” fame boasts an incredible sea view just inches from the restaurant’s back windows and the expected fare of crab, oysters, shrimp, and calamari. // www.thebirdscafe.com // www.innatthetides.com // www.spudpointcrabco.com // www.fishetarianfishmarket.com

Despite its casual atmosphere, the Terrapin Creek Café is one of the fancier dining options in Bodega Bay. It boasts a Michelin star, which is quite impressive for such a tiny and remote destination. The menu is innovative and seasonal, a fusion of seafood and global cuisine, like Pan-Roasted Hokkaido Scallops with carrot and ginger purée, pickled shiitakes, fennel, peas, and arugula and Homemade Bigoli Pasta with Manila clams, chorizo sausage, Tuscan kale, and parmesan cheese. // www.terrapincreekcafe.com

Sipping: Sonoma Coast Vineyards is the only tasting room in Bodega Bay. It offers a guided four-wine flight while relaxing outside, gazing at the waterfront and marina. Add a picnic box of cheese and charcuterie for the ultimate Bodega Bay winetasting experience.

Lodging: The 83-room Lodge at Bodega Bay offers dining, sleeping, sipping, and outdoor activities. The Lodge hosts wine receptions in their lobby on Thursday through Saturday, with local wines poured and small bites offered for guests. The Fireside Lounge has drinks, dinner, and firepits overlooking the ocean. Drakes Sonoma Coast has a wide variety of fare, from pasta to steak, salads to seafood. The Lodge is equipped with hot tubs, a pool, a bocce court, bicycles, and guided nature walks. The Lodge also provides guests with ocean-inspired treatments like the Warm Shell Massage and the Cabernet Grape Sea Scrub—an homage to the nearby California wine country. // www.lodgeatbodegabay.com