Would it be fair to say that the Brits are known better as wine drinkers than wine makers? However, things have changed; local wine no longer tastes like rain. In this post-Brexit era, the passion to buy British is made easier by the production and proliferation of award-winning English sparkling wines.

Photo courtesy of British Airways

Flying the Flag

Two years ago, British Airways appointed the airline’s—likely the airline industry’s—first Master of Wine. Tim Jackson MW brought his expertise to BA to elevate the premium wine experience for passengers. Instead of sipping Veuve Clicquot or Lanson in Club World, some passengers requested to try Hattingley Valley Blanc de Noirs 2018, an excellent vintage from Hampshire, England, bottled exclusively for British Airways. “Green-gold with a fine, elegant mousse, this carries a rich, leesy nose of freshly baked bread alongside apricot and yellow apple. The lively acidity of English sparkling is beautifully balanced by ripe, red apple and cherry flavors that carry through to a long, toasty, savory finish.”

Tim talks about additional English sparkling wines that were chosen in 2024 to be featured in rotation at 35,000 feet: Digby Fine English Brut NV from West Sussex; Simpsons Chalklands Cuvée Brut NV from Kent, and Balfour Rosé de Noirs, another BA exclusive blend, also from Kent.

British Airways Master of Wine Tim Jackson, courtesy of British Airways

Chalk Talk and the Fizz Factor

The geographical relationship between France’s northern coast and England’s southern coast is clear when glancing at a map of the English Channel. In this part of the U.K., the soil consists of limestone, green sandstone, clay, and, importantly, chalk. While some say chalk is not the be-all and end-all for growing sparkling wine grapes, it appears near the surface in most of Champagne’s Grand Cru villages. In fact, the bulk of English wine is sparkling, which the U.K. Vineyard Association calls “British Fizz.”

And, importantly, there’s the weather. The conversation around climate change is essential to understanding the burgeoning fizz factor in the South of England. Notoriously cold and wet, the United Kingdom is becoming noticeably warmer and sunnier. Observers say the weather resembles France’s Champagne region about 50 years ago.

Photo of Gusbourne Vineyards, courtesy of Wines of Great Britain

A Glass of Sussex

From a fledgling start in the early 1970s, there are now about 1,000 vineyards in England and Wales, half of which are in Sussex. The unique chalky soil holds water, allowing vines to flourish without irrigation. According to the BBC, “English wines have garnered significant recognition and acclaim on the national and international stage and have been featured at prestigious state dinners and royal events. Plus, in blind tastings against Champagne, they have held their own—so much so that Champagne producers have started buying large swathes of land in the U.K.”

A decade ago, Taittinger was first with Domaine St-Evremond, established in Kent about an hour from London. Pommery now grows grapes for bubbles in Hampshire. In 2023, Jackson Family announced a major expansion into English still and sparkling premium wine production. JFW winemaker Charlie Holland said, “The company is in it for the long haul; we plan to build up a strong collection of reserve wines over the next 15 years and focus on premium and super-premium labels. In time, we may look at acquiring vineyards and/or land in other English regions – this is just the beginning.”

English growers and winemakers are producing top-quality grapes like Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay that are well suited for making local sparkling wine, typically showing prominent fruit and toasty, elegant notes. A long growing season results in grapes with high acidity, an important factor for English producers, along with using the traditional méthode champenoise that requires secondary fermentation in the bottle.

Home grown English wines at THE PIG // Photo by Sophie Bolesworth

English Brands that Wear the Crown

Because the wine industry in the U.K. is relatively new and small-scale, boutique wineries produce limited cases of handcrafted sparkling. Among the best of Britain are Bolney, Ridgeview, Nyetimber, Gusbourne, Domaine Hugo, Rathfinny, and Chapel Down, with a limited edition 2016 sparkling poured at the coronation of King Charles III. These brands regularly win accolades from Decanter Magazine, the International Wine Challenge, and Wines of Great Britain.

In Dorset, Bride Valley produces elegant single-estate sparkling from the vineyard founded by Steven and Bella Spurrier. It was during his time in Paris that Steven masterminded the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting—an event credited with revolutionizing the world of wine. After living in France, London, and New York City, the Spurriers made Litton Cheney, near Dorset’s famous Jurassic Coast, their home from 1987. Early on, Steven was keenly aware of the potential for sparkling production at the 200-acre farm on the edge of the village.

The late Steven Spurrier described the Bride Valley Vineyards as “A single big bowl facing southeast, south, and southwest from which we can see the English Channel four miles away as the crow flies. There is a lot of chalk on the farm; in fact, the soil is basically chalk under a 12-inch cut of loam, and we are about 25 miles from Kimmeridge, after which the chalk of Champagne is named.” Wine critic Jancis Robinson stated, “Bride Valley is now firmly established as a superior English sparkling wine.”

Acclaimed winemakers Dermot and Ana Sugrue run Sugrue South Downs, where their very own label of English sparkling wine is sourced in vineyards overlooked by THE PIG–in South Downs, West Sussex. Known as “the man who put English sparkling on the map,” Sugrue was described by Spurrier as “the best winemaker in England.” In collaboration with THE PIG co-founder and chairman Robin Hutson, a serious supporter of English wine, Dermot makes all the English wines for all the boutique country houses and restaurants in THE PIG Group.

Alpaca Block 2023 Harvest // Photo by Jale Eastham, THE PIG

Sustainability Matters

Nicola Bates, CEO of WineGB, the Trade Association for English and Welsh wine, said, “Our industry has grown up with the knowledge of climate change, and it is a reminder of our responsibility to ensure that English and Welsh wine production is sustainable. Many of our vineyards seek to minimize their climatic impact, and we help our members reduce their CO2 levels and apply the best vineyard management techniques. We also help consumers understand those vineyards reducing their impacts through the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain certification program.

Founded just four years ago, over 43% of vineyards are already measuring and reducing their impacts in the vineyard and wineries. This independently audited program gives consumers confidence they are choosing wines that align with their values.”

Great British Wines

It seems rather incongruous to see “Great British Wines” on a menu. Yet there it is, proudly holding its own in the dining room at THE PIG, near Bath. The concept is no longer a joke—not long ago, the words “Great” and “Britain” never appeared together as it concerned food or wine. Sales of English sparkling wines jumped 187% between 2018 and 2023, the industry organization WineGB reported. And today, English sparkling wines are selected by sommeliers to be featured in some of the world’s finest restaurants.

For more information www.winegb.co.uk