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Marchelle Wines
Forgotten Grapes: A Brush with History
WRITTEN BY Laurie Jo Miller Farr

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Published On: August 12, 2024
4 adults standing in front of vineyard, smiling with arms around each other
Marchelle Wines Founders // PHOTOS COURTESy OF Marchelle Wines

How well the world knows Napa Valley for its famous Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay—and rightly so. Yet there’s so much more to love. Importantly, Marchelle Wines reminds one about less celebrated varietals of uncompromising quality from nearly forgotten grapes that produce expressive wines, always delivering a unique sense of place. Some are among the world’s oldest vines, and others are nearly extinct.

Appreciate the fruit of 138-year-old vines in a proprietary red blend called Family Cuvée from Marchelle Wines. The name is a tribute to the grapes’ source: the famed family-owned Bechthold Vineyard in the Mokelumne River sub-AVA within the Lodi AVA, San Joaquin Valley. Generational ties to the land are critical for emotional and financial reasons, considering the very low yields from these beloved 25 acres of gnarled, head-trained, dry-farmed vines. Indeed, as growers pointed out, there is no harvest in some years.

Next, meet the 2020 Royal Tee Block Zinfandel. It’s sourced from five acres of old vines planted in 1889, known as Jesse’s Grove Vineyard, and has a rich winemaking heritage. A field blend of Black Prince, Flame Tokay, and Mission grapes, plus fruit from ancient Carignan vines, contribute distinct elements to this unique Zinfandel wine.

man looking at glasses of red wine in foregroundMarchelle Wines Limited Edition Charbono (2022) is a medium-bodied red wine sourced from Calistoga’s Frediani Vineyard. Dry-farmed since the 1920s, this is the best among the few existing Charbono vineyards in the U.S. Charbono is distinct, refined and full-bodied, a crowd-pleaser full of cherry and plum flavors.

Oyster lovers know that a glass of aromatic Colombard makes a perfect pairing. A taste profile of green apple, white peaches, and melon, French Colombard is a delightful yet overlooked white wine varietal related to the Chenin Blanc grape. In Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley AVA, Marchelle Wines sources America’s oldest Colombard fruit from Wes Cameron Ranch, where the vines are over 50 years old, and from Betty Ann Vineyard, likely planted around the turn of the 20th century. A lovely side note: the vineyard’s previous owners referred to their parents talking with an older woman visiting Betty Ann Vineyard in the 1970s who recalled picking grapes there just after the 1906 earthquake.

And there’s more juice to the Marchelle Wines story. The science-forward Greg La Follette (a.k.a. The “Vine Whisperer”) is head winemaker and partner, bringing chemistry and artistry to his cellar magic at Marchelle Wines. Back in the 1990s, under the mentorship of André Tchelistcheff, considered the godfather of California winemakers, the alchemy of oenology, fermentation, and microbiology found a like-minded disciple in La Follette. Highly respected as the founding winemaker and general manager at Flowers Winery out on the Sonoma Coast, Greg brought deep experience at 14 wineries to Marchelle Wines, co-founded with business partner Kevin Lee in 2021. By blending the names of their wives, Mara and Michelle, the winery’s name was born.

Book a private tasting with a Marchelle Wines winemaker or owner at Vault + Artifacts, 1124 Lincoln Ave. in downtown Calistoga. Alternatively, reserve a barrel-to-bottle experience at the winery in Sebastopol.

For more information www.marchellewines.com