Jenner, California, officially Jenner-by-the-Sea, is just that: by the sea. It hugs the hills of the dramatic Pacific coastline on its west side, has the iconic Pacific Coast Highway, Highway 1, running through its center, and climbs higher on its eastern side into redwood forests. Its population hovers in the hundreds, but that doesn’t count the thousands who overtake the area on weekends and in good weather to hike, kayak, or enjoy the scenic views and fresh air for a while.

It has always been a quiet little beach town, but recent investments in the area have given Jenner a secluded, exclusive vibe for those in the know. Jenner’s prime boast is its location at the end of the Russian River, where it flows into the Pacific Ocean. A large peninsula separates the river and Jenner’s town center from the ocean on its west side, making the area around the channel a calm, languid respite.

Although it’s unknown how Jenner was initially named “by the sea,” it’s not surprising. From every place, every angle, and every height, the sea is Jenner’s focus. That may be why it has little else to offer other than sea-related activities. Jenner and its surrounds have beaches galore—with fabulous names like Goat Rock Beach, Shell Beach, Fish Head Beach, Sandy Cove, and Russian Gulch. But these beaches are not meant for swimming. Besides the frigid water, the ocean currents are so dangerous that even wading is discouraged in most places.

 

HIKING-BY-THE-SEA

For outdoor activity enthusiasts, Jenner offers hiking trails, kayaking opportunities, and long stretches of dramatic coastline to explore. But hiking is at the top of the list. Hikers can choose from 15 miles of trails on the breathtaking Jenner Headlands. Adventurous hikers can summit Pole Mountain, the highest point along the Northern Sonoma coast, to get a 360-degree view of Sonoma County all the way to the Mayacamas Mountain Range that divides Sonoma from Napa Valley. The round-trip hike follows what is known as the Sea to Sky Trail. // www.alltrails.com/trail/us/california/pole-mountain-via-sea-to-sky-trail

 

RUSSIANS-BY-THE-SEA

The Russian River got its name from the Russian immigrants who settled in the Jenner area in the early 19th century. Just eight miles north of town, the National Historic Landmark, Fort Ross, was formerly the base for the seal- and otter-hunting Russian American Fur Company. Fort Ross State Historical Park now includes 3,400 acres of untamed wilderness and a reconstructed fort that was once a Russian Empire trading post. Fort Ross is part of the California State Park system and a historical site to see when visiting the area. It houses a restored version of the actual Russian fort and includes a Russian Orthodox church, a replica of the first California windmill, two campsites, and a visitor center to explain the area’s history in depth. // www.fortross.org

 

SIPPING-BY-THE-SEA

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery

Sharing nothing but a name with the actual Fort Ross, the Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery is the only official tasting room within miles of Jenner, but it offers an experience comparable to the wine country’s central locales. At the top of the hill above Jenner in the redwood forest, Fort Ross Winery was instrumental in establishing the region as an American Viticultural Area—Fort Ross-Seaview—in 2011. Their vineyards are planted above the fog line to benefit from cool nights, warm sunshine, and coastal breezes. Because of the incredible terroir, many well-known wineries grow vineyards in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA, but for now, Fort Ross has the market covered for official tasting rooms. The terrace gives a view of the Pacific Ocean beyond the trees, and the winery shares elevated, curated small bites paired with its flagship varieties, delicious Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc and Pinotage. // www.fortrossvineyards.com

 

DINING-BY-THE-SEA

River’s End

The top dining choice in town is River’s End, with a small but scrumptious menu and views to die for. This is where the crowd gathers for cocktails and bites on the terrace overlooking the Russian River and Pacific Ocean’s meeting point; watching the sunset is the perfect end of the day.

The inside is cozy and upscale, and the Daily Meal awarded River’s End as one of the Top 5 Romantic Restaurants in the United States. Its large picture windows allow vistas of—of course—the sea, and the seasonal, artistically presented fare does not disappoint, with options like Oysters Epiphany—four Miyagi oysters with lime ginger mignonette and wasabi tobiko. // www.ilovesunsets.com

 

SLEEPING-BY-THE-SEA

Timber Cove Resort

Timber Cove, recently revamped and updated, has retained its rustic charm, and with private decks giving picture postcard views, it’s a spot that’s hard to beat. It’s 14 miles north of Jenner along the coast but conveniently boasts its own full-service restaurant, Coast Kitchen, making it a self-contained oasis. It also has 46 rooms and six suites, room service, coastal trails, and group bonfires at night. Special in-room treats like a Crosley LP Record Player and collection of vinyl records make it homey and quaint. // www.timbercoveresort.com

 

La Bella Cabina

Located just north of town, the charming La Bella Cabina is an authentic old-school river cabin fully modernized and located both below and above the fray—its steps lead down from the property’s gate to the cabin. The back deck sits high above the water on the peaceful part of the Russian River as it flows to the ocean. Kayaks and a hot tub are included.  // www.labellacabina.com

 

River’s End

After dinner at River’s End, walk down to the water’s edge for a stay at one of their luxury accommodations or vintage cabins, some sitting right on the water’s edge. The luxury homes are highly secluded; some decks and patios can only be seen by the seals on the peninsula across the water. These well-appointed properties add something new to Jenner—genuine sophistication. // www.ilovesunsets.com/jenner-ca-lodging

Just east of town, Duncans Mills, population 85, acts as the provisions stop for those heading west to the coast. The General Store, a bakery, a café, a tavern, and two tasting rooms more than triple the offerings in Jenner. Be sure to stock up before arriving because once in Jenner, one may not want to leave. // www.duncanmillsvillage.com