SIP Feature
Cult Winemaker Dave Phinney
WRITTEN BY fran miller

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Published On: October 03, 2024
Dave Phinney of Orwin Swift kneeling looking at vintage scissors on wood floor with stone wall. For the article on Cult Winemaker Dave Phinney
Photos courtesy of Orin Swift

Winemaker Dave Phinney’s involvement in any vinous project captures attention. His innovative approach, which includes provocative and avant-garde wine labels, bold vineyard practices, and distinctive tasting experiences, continually challenges industry norms. His creativity is particularly evident in his Orin Swift Cellars brand and its varying labels, such as 8 Years in the Desert, Blank Stare, China Doll, and more than a dozen others.

As the winemaker, creative director, and founder of the winery that honors his father and mother (Orin is his dad’s middle name, and Swift is his mother’s maiden name), Phinney has built an international following eager for each new release. It was this powerful connection with consumers that caught the attention of Gallo, who was thrilled to add the brand to its portfolio in 2016. Phinney was equally thrilled with Gallo’s involvement, which allows him to focus on the things he does best: working the vineyard, working in the cellar, and developing creative packaging.

“Gallo’s participation makes me feel like a kid in a candy store,” said Phinney. “I know that selling the wine is the hardest part of this business, and I put Orin Swift wines in the hands of people who know what they’re doing. The philosophy at Orin Swift is to be humble and to over-deliver, and that describes Gallo’s philosophy, too. There’s not a lot of flash, just a really smart way of doing business.”   

person holding glass of red wine in front of table with stacked books with bottles of wine For the article: Cult Winemaker Dave Phinney

Orin Swift wines are beloved for their aromatic complexity and full-bodied character, making them collectible not only for their quality but also for their unique labels, which reflect Phinney’s appreciation for fine art. He credits his artistic inclinations to his parents, who, during his childhood, exposed him to global museums during family vacations. At the time, he was not enthused, but he now acknowledges the creative impact that these cultural experiences provided. “I associate that early art exposure with my active imagination and desire to create,” said Phinney.

Like many, Phinney stumbled into the wine business. As a college student studying in Florence, Italy for a semester, he was exposed to and fell in love with wine. “Back in Arizona, I had been studying political science and history with a post-graduate plan to attend law school. But after my time in Italy, the die was cast,” said Phinney, who eventually returned to the states, received his college degree, and moved to Napa Valley four days later. 

Fifty resume submissions yielded one response from Robert Mondavi Winery. Phinney showed up to his interview for a temporary harvest position wearing a suit and tie. “They literally laughed at me, and then gave me a very basic math exam and asked if I could pass a drug test.”  A few weeks later, he was hired.  

He spent the 1997 harvest working the night shift. A strong work ethic earned him the nickname “Guerro” (Spanish for “warrior”) from the predominantly Latino crew who showed him the ropes. He loved all of it—the late nights, the early mornings, and the intense physical demands. But he quickly realized that if he were going to work so hard, it would have to be for himself. And thus, he founded Orin Swift in 1998. His first harvest and bottling were less than spectacular due to his purchase of fruit from the wrong part of a great vineyard. It was a valuable learning experience.

“It taught me that as winemakers, we are only as good as our fruit source,” said Phinney. “There are really no silver bullets or secrets. That first harvest taught me that experience is what you get when you don’t get what you want, and it informed my winemaking philosophy which is: find the best fruit from the best vineyards, farm it right, harvest it right, bring it into the winery, and don’t screw it up.”  

This vineyard-first philosophy results in Phinney’s finely crafted portfolio of bold, inventive wines—from Zinfandel-based blends and Napa Cabernet Sauvignon to sparkling wine—sourced from the best grapes from acclaimed California vineyards. Phinney attributes Gallo’s involvement to his increased access to better vineyards, for which he has more control of the farming practices. The 2022 Mercury Head Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance, features grapes from iconic Napa vineyards, including Stagecoach Vineyard on Atlas Peak, Warnock Vineyard, Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford, and the historic Monte Rosso Vineyard on Moon Mountain.

Stagecoach is also the source for his 2022 Scattered Stones red blend, a rich wine that expresses Phinney’s creative exploration of the two most fundamental elements of winemaking: nature and nurture. The 2022 Firebent Chardonnay features Atlas Peak AVA grapes from the famed Stagecoach and Antinori Napa Valley vineyards. And the winery’s top Bordeaux blend, the powerful 2022 Papillon, is a fusion of grapes from Stagecoach, Morisoli, and Monte Rosso.

Every Orin Swift packaging element—from glass selection to label art and material—is designed by Phinney, whose imaginative creativity comes to life in Orin Swift’s downtown St. Helena tasting room, located in a historic bank building. Phinney was deeply involved in the design process, overseeing everything from sourcing furnishings, reclaiming wood and metal fixtures, and restoring the Art Deco façade. As work began on the space, Phinney found that it was more about preservation than deconstruction.

exterior view of Orin Swift for the article: Cult Winemaker Dave Phinney

“As we peeled back its layers, we were pleasantly surprised,” said Phinney, for whom the tasting room is particularly important. He met and married his wife in St. Helena, and the two made their home just blocks from the Main St. address. “The façade had held up well, so we maintained the 1920 Art Deco style, bringing this historical building in St. Helena back to its original roots.”

The tasting room design is inspired by the game “Rock, Paper, Scissors,” for which a vintage scissors-themed art installation serves as a backdrop for the tasting experiences. Rock textures, steel elements, rich leather, and neon signs are complimented by artwork created or curated by Phinney. Guests can choose from three tasting experiences: “Rock” is a stand-at-the-bar tasting, “Paper” is a seated tasting, and “Scissors” is a private tasting of the brand’s most exclusive wines. Guests are often surprised and delighted to find Phinney leading the occasional tasting.

menu displayed on rock on wood table with wine bottle and glass for the article Cult Winemaker Dave Phinney

Despite the popularity of Orin Swift and its varying varietals, Phinney claims he has never made a wine for which he’s completely satisfied. “We’re always challenging ourselves,” said Phinney. “We don’t have competitors; we compete with ourselves. I take what we do extremely seriously. I view it as a responsibility, and it would be disrespectful to the product, the company, and the consumer if I didn’t. I’ll be shocked if, over the next 2-5 years, we’re making not just better but appreciably better wine. I’m excited about what the future holds. Orin Swift wines will only get better.”

Reserve an appointment for one of Orin Swift’s expanded and reimagined tasting experiences by visiting the website or stopping by the tasting room, 1321 Main Street in St. Helena.

For more information www.orinswift.com
 
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