Yes, the breads in Napa Valley are that good – a religious experience by any definition. On this, the devout, agnostics, atheists, and foodies can all agree. And there is no shortage of it in the valley. The question really is, which new bread to try each day? Let the pilgrimage begin.

The history of breadmaking in the Bay Area is legendary, harkening back to 1849 and the days of the Gold Rush, when miners carried sourdough starter with them to make bread while out in the wilderness—pretty cool stuff – the miners making sourdough in their cast iron pots over an open flame. Also interesting is that DNA studies have shown that the sourdough starter the miners perpetuated contained the same species of bacteria and wild yeast found in many of today’s sourdough breads.

For this “miracle,” one can thank those competitive Italian and French bakery families in San Francisco with their closely guarded “mother sponge” (i.e., sourdough starter) recipes. Because of these factors, the Northern California breads of today are likely similar, in many regards, to breads created over 120 years ago. Now, there’s something to chew on.

There are so many in the region that it can be challenging to know where to begin. For starters, there are the breads produced in Napa Valley and those made in nearby locales (Sonoma County and San Francisco, in particular). Napa Valley food establishments revere many loaves emanating from outside the valley. Because of their popularity and exceptional culinary qualities, they have become readily available at the region’s restaurants and grocery stores. These loaves are known to be as fresh as those baked in the ‘hood because their delivery trucks are seen daily crossing the Sonoma County line in the wee hours of the night.

West Won Bread // Photo by Chris Andrews

The most well-known producers in Napa Valley are Model Bakery, with locations in Napa and St. Helena, Bouchon Bakery in Yountville, West Won Bread, and Sciambra Bakery (dba Napa Baking Co.) in Napa. Though a newcomer, Moulin is also a contender. And one would be remiss in failing to mention Whole Foods. Though many of their excellent and varied loaves are produced elsewhere, their local kitchen pumps out many loaves of housemade sourdough every week, which is very good.

Brown’s Valley Market // Photo by Chris Andrews

From outside the county are hearty breads and rolls from the Basque Boulangerie in Sonoma, more traditional and delicate loaves from Costeaux French Bakery of Healdsburg, the perfectly textured breads of Acme Bread Company in San Francisco, and then the legendary loaves pumped out by Petaluma’s Della Fattoria, a favorite of many well-known local chefs. All these and more can be found at the Browns Valley Market, a smallish gourmet grocer tucked into the town’s primarily residential Browns Valley section.

The Market has fantastic everything, including an extensive cheese and charcuterie section and every imaginable accompaniment and condiment needed for an over-the-top cheeseboard. Up valley, there is the Sunshine Foods Market, which is similar in the quality of its wares and where many of these same breads and local ones can be found. Sunshine Foods also has, hands down, the best selection of gourmet cheeses and charcuterie in Napa Valley.

Photo by Chris Andrews

If one is looking for the ever-elusive Della Fattoria loaves, head to Hudson Greens and Goods in the Oxbow Market, and while there, consider swinging by Oxbow Cheese and Wine Merchant or The Fatted Calf to stock up on accompaniments for the bread. Getting to Hudson Greens early is best, as the Della Fattoria loaves will be gone early in the afternoon.

Della Fattoria’s loaves vary seasonally, but standbys include campagne, assorted baguettes, ciabatta, fluffy dinner rolls, darkly roasted pane integrale and levain, olive and polenta loaves, Pullman loaves (perfect for sandwiches), rosemary Meyer lemon boule, and seeded wheat bread. Della Fattoria’s sourdough breads are made with organic flour and baked in a wood-fired oven. They are renowned for their dark, caramelized crusts. The breads are moist and chewy, with a pronounced sourdough twang. In a word, these baked goods are hearty.

Napa now has its own rock star in the category of hearty loaves: West Won Bread. Owner and baker Kyle Kuehner started making baked goods in 2014 and was a quick study, doing a few short stints at bakeries in San Francisco, then settling in for a long stint at Firebrand Artisan Breads in Oakland, then rounding out his education in breadmaking at Model Bakery. In 2018, he had the confidence to go it alone, pumping out his loaves under the banner of Royal Artisan Breads, which he sold at the Napa Farmers Market. The company would later become West Won Breads – both labels building their presence in the community through the farmers markets.

Kuehner recently opened his brick-and-mortar retail and production bakery just north of downtown on Soscol Avenue in Napa. At the same time, he maintained his strongholds in the markets and then expanded into wholesale production. The organic sourdough loaves coming out of Kuehner’s kitchen are out of this world – sprouted rye and quinoa, olive baguettes, buckwheat, walnut and candied pear loaves, epis, and dense multi-grain sprouted bread. There is always something new and delicious, and these are hands down some of the highest quality around.

Sometimes the day calls for a picnic with prosciutto, salumi, or porchetta, some freshly made pesto, mozzarella di bufala and gorgonzola, and an assortment of antipasti and, of course, there are going to need to be some baked goods involved. Genova Delicatessen has all the goods, including traditional Italian and French baguettes, ciabatta, and rolls from Sciambra Bakery and Costeaux French Bakery, plus to-die-for focaccia in various flavors from Cuneo Bakery of South San Francisco. Genova is the only place in town to find the full gamut of Italian delicacies.

Model Bakery is a fixture in Napa Valley, its roots going back 90 years, with its owner, Karen Mitchell, having been its proprietor for the last 30 years. Model Bakery is known for its distinctive artisan breads made with organic, stone-ground flours and with time-tested recipes. By far the most popular bakery with locals, Model Bakery has maintained the consistency of its signature loaves and famous English muffins for decades – the recipes carefully handed down from head baker to head baker, most of the revered recipes having emanated from Mitchell’s family recipes and all with a European influence.

Regular breads on the shelf include sourdough batards, boules and sandwich loaves, cranberry walnut levain, French boule, focaccia, and assorted baguettes. Model Bakery’s breads are distinctive for their exceptionally fresh and flavorful flours, chewy and moist bite, and their holes – lots of them; the holes are part of what makes these irresistibly delicious.

Photo by David Escalante courtesy of Bouchon Bakery

And then there is the Bouchon Bakery, of Thomas Keller fame. On any given weekend, folks are lined up for blocks to enter this mecca of breads and pastries. Early on, the bakery was established as a convenience for Keller’s nearby restaurants, Bouchon and The French Laundry, as he sought to produce baked goods and pastries on par with the other foods served. Once the bakery was up and running, however, it became clear that the demand for these products was great, and in 2003, Bouchon Bakery opened its doors to the general public.

The bakery’s artisan selection is vast and includes special seasonal loaves. All Bouchon loaves are made with organic, stone-ground flours. Regulars on the menu include pain au levain, French baguettes and epi baguettes, campagne boules, cheese rolls, ciabatta loaves, French batards, and their popular cranberry current batard.

Napa Valley’s bread scene is well worth exploring. Plan to set aside some time to picnic, first choosing an intriguing loaf of bread as the foundation, then assembling favorite accompaniments to round out the meal. Even better, pick up some lovely Irish butter or a flavorful extra virgin olive oil, pop open a favorite bottle of wine, and enjoy.

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