Phil Pead has a secret. The Rutherford-based vintner farms one acre of primo Cabernet grapes to make his 140 cases of Akrasia Cabernet Sauvignon. But–he’s not a fan of Napa Cab. The Brit-born Pead favors the elegant restraint of European wines. French bordeauxs and burgundies are more to his liking. And thus, he models his wine after the plush, round, and opulent style he most enjoys.
It’s a funny thing; a vintner from one of the most celebrated Cabernet regions in the world seemingly trying to escape his vineyard’s destiny. Yet Pead is finding a steady fan base for his full-bodied and complex Akrasia Cab, which sommelier Mark Buckley describes as “The closest thing I have had from California to a Pichon Longueville or Pauillac in ages.” Until recently only available to those on the Akrasia mailing list, Pead’s current vintage can presently be found on the wine list at Downtown Napa’s Cole’s Chop House, as well as at a handful of higher-end restaurants in Boston and Florida (where Pead has a second home.) A quick and simple bottle tasting was all it took to convince Cole’s tasting team that Akrasia belonged amongst the top-tier wines at the popular steakhouse.
“Akrasia holds a special place on our wine lists, consistently exceeding expectations with our guests because of its quality and value,” said Amanda Fraga, director of beverage for Florida-based The Genuine Hospitality Group. “With the essence of Napa Valley – black currant, plum, and licorice – and the finesse reminiscent of a Bordeaux, Akrasia’s complexity flawlessly complements a wide variety of flavors and spices of our menus.”
In his effort to craft a Cab that’s a bit different from the Napa standard, Pead hired Pinot Noir specialist Patrick Saboe as his winemaker. Pinot and its fickle grape require a particular skill that Saboe brings to his Cabernet Sauvignon approach, and the balanced result is everything that Pead had hoped for. “When a wine is really beautiful, you know immediately,” said Pead. “And Patrick is making beautiful wine from our small Rutherford vineyard.”
Akrasia is an Ancient Greek word meaning “against one’s better judgment,” and when Pead purchased his Rutherford property in 2011, the term was apropos. The vineyard was in a sorry state, requiring passion and care in its rehabilitation. Hence, to Pead, Akrasia means passion. “It’s all about passion for us,” said Pead. “Passion for making the best Cabernet without concern for ratings. Passion for letting nature determine the vintage versus some manipulation in the wine-making process. Passion to focus on harmony and balance.”
Like its wines, Akrasia’s sales technique is a bit different. The wines can be purchased online via the winery website. Sign up for the ‘Line of Fire Club’, and receive 25% off each bottle purchased, with no minimum order or subsequent purchase requirement. While the winery has no tasting room, this one bottle/25% off price is the best way to become acquainted with Akrasia’s unique Napa Cabs.
